Sunday, 27 March 2011

Everybody needs good neighbours…



When we moved into our new flat recently one of our neighbours, Mark, from the flat below was an absolute godsend. Not only did he help us cart all our stuff up the four flights of stairs to our new home, but without his brawn we would never have broken the record for the heaviest TV ever carried up stairs!

To thank him for his efforts, I took him round a slice of my chocolate beetroot cake. To my surprise (and enormous delight), he felt the need to return this favour, and a few days later arrived at my door with three bags full of wild mushrooms!

See, Mark says he “works with fruit and veg.” I don’t know exactly what that means, (does he grow/sell/... sculpt them?), but he’s twice described his job to me in that way. One day I’ll ask him what his work entails, but for the time being I am just chuffed to have a neighbour who can deliver such treats. And am going to do everything possible to keep up this tasty little exchange we’ve got going!

Precious because they are tricky to get hold of outside of Autumn, wild mushrooms can also be quite pricey to buy, so for me it was like being delivered three bags of gold. I knew instantly what I’d do with them: this delicious, indulgent recipe that I picked up at a cookery class at the Divertimenti Cookery School a few years back. Combining that heady trio of garlic, white wine and cream with a doubly delicious topping of hollandaise sauce, it is French and Fantastic and ma Favourite.

Wild Mushroom and Hollandaise Tarts
400g fresh chanterelle or wild mushrooms (well cleaned)
1 garlic clove
100ml double cream
1 bunch chives
1 bunch chervil
2 tbsp dry white wine
Salt, pepper, nutmeg
250g puff pastry

For the hollandaise:
3 tbsp white wine vinegar
6 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
2 egg yolks
110g butter, softened
Lemon juice

1. Roll the pastry sheets into rectangles and then cut them into even-sized squares. Now score all the way around about 1-inch in from the edge with a small knife ending with a window-like effect. Place on a baking tray and cook until puffed and golden brown. Remove from the baking tray and place on a cooling rack.

2. Meanwhile, start the hollandaise by placing the vinegar, peppercorns and bay leaf into a small saucepan and simmer until reduced to 1 tbsp. Allow to cool completely.

3. Place another pan with a little water in it onto the heat and bring to a simmer. Place the egg yolks into a heatproof bowl and add the reduction. Set the bowl over the saucepan (making sure it’s not touching the water), and beat the mixture lightly with a whisk. It will begin to thicken.

4. Now start adding the butter bit by bit. As the first knob of butter melts, add the next. Keep stirring until nice and thick. When you’ve added all the butter, turn the heat off but keep the bowl placed on the saucepan to keep warm.

5. Meanwhile, prepare the mushrooms by cleaning them with a damp cloth. Prepare a heavy-based frying pan by placing it on the hob and adding a large knob of butter. When melted, add enough mushrooms to fill the pan. Saute until golden brown on all sides.

6. Now, add the crushed garlic, double cream and wine. Reduce the wine and cream until syrupy. Season and add the chopped herbs. Put to one side until cool enough to spoon over the pastry.

7. Finally, finish off the hollandaise sauce with a squeeze of lemon and seasoning to taste, then spoon this over the mushrooms and serve.

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